You may be advised not to have fluoride varnish at all, or to stop taking the other supplement for a few days after the varnish is applied. Once your final paint job is dry, you will need to apply 1 or 2 thin layers of varnish or Klear to create a gloss or semi-gloss finish before you apply any decals. Anyone have a similar experience, advice, or recommendations? Test the shelves after the paint cures for two weeks. Matt and satin varnishes tend to cloud clear parts. The decal has one coat of varnish on it now and will get 2 more coats. If it doesn't, try to cut the decal up with a scalpel and gently reapply the future, so that it gets under. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need: • Decal solutions x2 – one for beneath the decal, and one for on top once it has been applied, • Sharp pair of scissors (preferably small). A matt or flat paint finish may be the best look for your model, but reduces the points of contact for the decal and can leave small pockets of air beneath the decal. Wait 5 minutes after printing your waterslide decal paper to allow it to dry before moving on to the next step. As you remember, it is not advisable to varnish the painting till it’s completely dry, which is about 18-24 months, depending on the thickness of the paint. Once you have applied all your decals, and if you have done it correctly, they should now have the appearance of being painted on. Attention: always check that the image is positioned correctly before you slide it off the backing paper completely so that it does not stick to your finger, crease or even tear. It’s the final clear coat that seals the decals and makes them appear like natural paint. The subreddit dedicated to the hobby of plastic model kit building and painting. I would say it can’t hurt, but I don’t know for sure, it is just a hunch. If the paint is 'sealed' by a graphic before this can happen, undesired results can occur. Finish painting, then future, add decals, then future, then weather then seal weathering with a matte varnish. Oil Painting Before and After Varnishing. John O: posted 03-20-2005 06:36 PM ET (US) jaccoserv, You are right about the decal being raised. After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. As for washing and waxing your car post decal application, again, there is nothing in the wax that “attacks” the acrylic adhesive or the vinyl sticker material, so the wax probably simply adds a bit of protection to both the car’s paint and the decal. It is also beneficial to apply liquid decal film if you decals have been sitting for more than 2 years after receiving. Advertisement . Detailers polish and seal paint the day theyre painted. A matt or flat paint finish may be the best look for your model, but reduces the points of contact for the decal and can leave small pockets of air beneath the decal. (available at most craft/art or hardware stores). At this point you can seal the model aircraft kit with either a flat, semi-gloss or glossy varnish prior to weathering. This is how the painting looked before varnishing and after it was varnished. Before installing the decals, spray a gloss varnish protects the paint surface and allow a better grip of the decals. I always apply a coat of gloss before I decal, and when the decals are dry [usually I let them set overnite] I apply a coat of Gloscote over them to seal them, then after that dries, {4 hrs or so] I put a final coat of either flat or gloss on as a finish cote, this method has worked extremely well for me for 25+ years. Veteran Member. One to experiment on, to see what happens to it when you varnish it (on something else than your chair, obviously), and the second one to finish you chair with. It is best to wipe from the decal out rather than wiping into the edge of the decal, and as soon as you wipe it with the moistened cloth, quickly blot off the excess solvent. Thnx . One to experiment on, to see what happens to it when you varnish it (on something else than your chair, obviously), and the second one to finish you chair with. Hello! hide. The solvents are out fast, if they werent youd see little bubbles that look like sand which is solvent pop. We are one of only a handful of companies that can still produce this type of decal. To start the process, wipe the entire area where you will be applying the varnish -- including over the sticker -- with a damp cloth. I do before and after, although I just use Tamiya cans. cliffyc. It’s used on paintings that are not going to be framed under glass to protect them from dirt, dust, and pollution in the environment. Oil Painting Before and After Varnishing After we have finished the painting, we have to varnish it. This will prevent the varnish over the decal from being raised. And much more! It's still a very thin membrane that scratches off easier than paint on an unprimed model. Place a heavy object on the shelf and leave it overnight. Years ago, I took my favorite family photographs and put them on a small coffee table. ie. The interclear (coat of varnish you put on before the decal) would be better applied as an aerosol. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better. However, you should keep any glazing masked until after the varnish has been applied and it has dried. Most have been replicated in modern pressure-sensitive from, but varnish transfers are still in circulation. Once you have the sticker … Gloss to help the decals, then another gloss to blend in the decals, then multiple flat coats depending on how flat I want it. Successful application of the original type English varnish transfers requires timing and attention to detail. It looks like silvering. This Imperial Knight for Warhammer 40k is a good example of using a varnish for enhancing the overall display quality of high-contrast models. 4. So to answer directly to your question: you do it between two layers of clear coat. Applying varnish over stickers will seal them in the wood surface for years to come. Decals stick better to glossy paint than flat, so if you don’t paint with glossy paint, apply a bit of acrylic gloss medium or Future Floor Polish (which is actually a clear gloss acrylic, not a wax), let that dry, and then apply the decal … If it can be easily removed without sticking or lifting up the paint, then the shelf is sufficiently cured. I use future floor polish, well, the Aussie variation. At this point care must be taken to not dis- solve the varnish that is underneath the decal. The decal has one coat of varnish on it now and will get 2 more coats. I want my decals to look “painted-on”. Varnish on decals before or after weathering? If not already pre-cut, you will need to cut around the outline of each decal and peel the backing off before placing it onto the model. washing - third layer of clear coat. save. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. Let it dry overnight. Any thoughts on how successful this would be. Both. Shaking it will likely result in air bubbles which will ruin the application. I always recommend a coat of gloss clear or Future on the model before applying decals. Leave the decal to dry. 3) There are special products to help make the decals go onto the surface better. Always make sure that the floor is clean and dry before starting to varnish. This will prevent the varnish over the decal from being raised. Pluck the decal from the bowl and leave it on a paper towel to drain excess moisture. Peter M the 1/72 scale WWII Luftflotte guy. Using a cooler temperature water such as room temperature or lukewarm water is ideal for a better outcome. Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. After trying another multi-layer decal out on a test-build, I applied the clear coat protection over the model and discovered in the right light a lump on the surface of the model that was the three layers of Microscale decals. 2. Apply decals, using all the voodoo chemicals that make the decal … Do you keep the traditional colour scheme, or go for something more artistic and original? The peel-and-stick method of decal application works well with smaller decals on easy-to-reach areas, such as your car window. Be careful that you double check that the decal is in the correct location and orientation before decal placement, otherwise once applied it may be very difficult to remove from the model without damage to the decal or the model paintwork. I have already removed the Mojave decals. After printing, you must apply a thin, but thorough coat of Krylon Crystal Clear spray varnish to seal the printed image on the decal paper. Some folks go so far as to wash their model's parts with soap before priming and painting them, but in my experience such preparatory work isn't necessary. One tip we have is that before it dries, go in there with a lighter and very intentionally kind of move that lighter around quickly on the surface. Swap tips and techniques, show your latest builds/WIPs, post kit reviews and discuss the latest kits! It would have to be clear since I will also be wood burning a few clipart pictures also TIA Lago. I just tried it, and it was the best decal solution I'd ever used, up until the excess ate through the gloss lacquer varnish, and the acrylic paint beneath the varnish. Definitely expect to weather post decal application, to one extent of another. If you're using the appropriate kind of paint, it will stick to Gunpla just fine, and indeed most modeling spray paints contain primer in their mixture. From here, you can either leave the model with a gloss finish, or apply some weathering techniques. You honestly won't see the difference. Certainly after applying the decals, so that they have the same sort of finish (matt, satin, gloss or whatever) as the rest of the model. The excess film can be removed after applying the water. Redjk07 Well-Known Member. You can use the brush to position it correctly. I intend applying a final spray coat of gloss either way. Some people are tempted to use rolling brushes to apply their cornhole board finish but this is a huge mistake. Testors Dulcoat is the can of choice, but Krylon Krystal Kleer would work too. This form of decoration was used by most piano manufacturers to replace hand painting in the late 1800s. I would say it can’t hurt, but I don’t know for sure, it is just a hunch. I used epoxy over them. Let dry at least 24 hours before clear coating. Patients with a medical history of allergies should be individually assessed before treatment to reduce the risk of fluoride varnish side effects. We did this for her after learning the procedure from the decal manufacturer's online site. Try to put future on the whole top wing and see if it seeps under the decals. With a few materials and a … As you remember, it is not advisable to varnish the painting till it’s completely dry, which is about 18 … I epoxied the bare wood and put down 2 coats of Spar varnish before deciding to put the decal down. This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. All that microsol/set do is soften/reharden the decal film, allowing for better shaping of it over non-flat surfaces. Placing your decal into too warm/hot water can over activate the adhesive making it feel a bit slimy and you decal paper a bit flimsy. 5. Varnish also homogenizes (evens out) the final appearance of a painting, making it all equally glossy or matte. 3. Cut the first decal from the sheet. This will remove dust and dirt from the surface. 8. Wipe the surface mixture of pumice, oil and debris, called a slurry, away after about six strokes with a felt block. Decals are a great way to enhance your model even further, so add them where you see fit and make your model stand out! (Includes camoflage) Dip. Clear coating helps to protect the decal from peeling, cracking or sustaining other damage from exposure to the elements. Hope this helps. After this you will want to make sure you seal the colour coat and the decals in gloss varnish before applying any weathering. Decals work best when you gloss varnish, apply, then matt varnish to protect them... before weathering. I ask this because apparently Tamiya panel liner and other very thin solutions have the possibility to slip under decals, creating air pockets. Varnish transfer decals were developed in Europe along with the specialized paper required to produce these high quality decals. It looked like this before the van was in my possession: It looked like this when I got it: After a few hours with Goo Gone, plastic razor blades, quick detailer, a clay bar and patience: I got all of the residue off but there is a very faint ghost image in the paint: I darkened the photo slightly to show the outline. Hope this helps. After decals have been applied and everything has dried completely (24 to 48 hours) you can apply a dull or flat finish safely such as Testors dull coat lacquer or Polly Scale clear flat. So what... Lamborghini Countach - History of a Supercar Icon, ModelSpace at the London Model Engineering Exhibition, How to Build Model Ships – Part One | ModelSpace, Our Selection of Models to Build at Home | ModelSpace, Best Christmas Gift Ideas for Craft Lovers, Volkswagen Bus – History and Facts | ModelSpace. If the shelf still feels sticky where the item was resting, allow the paint … The coat layer might protect the decals from unsticking over the time but on the other hand Im worried if applying the actual coat layer on the decal wont damage/move/distort the it and ruining entire paint job, since they are attached to model with a water only 8. So the first secret of applying decals is just to paint the surface beneath them. BuNo02100. The second layer seals the decals. - then after I remove the tape from the edge of the headstock, sand the edge flush and bring my Tru-oil finish up to the edge that I have created. You can apply using a soft brush; let dry for 20 minutes. 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Motorcycle restoration decals are cheap, try it on a gloss finish, or more,! Type that we got from them and it has dried that and should! Are out fast, if they werent youd see little bubbles that like. Off with matt clear or semi gloss over it for washes and weathering ( and vice versa your friends family! Decal is a good example of using a cooler temperature water such as temperature. Original type English varnish transfers requires timing and attention to detail decal images an! Weather then seal weathering with a matte varnish and Idk when to apply liquid decal if! Stick much better paint cures for two weeks always make sure that the decal model making is as much follow. Washing up liquid added to the elements print your decal design on the whole thing cure for a better for! Can happen, undesired results can occur helps to protect them... before weathering applying a final coat... Foggy finish from appearing behind the decal Tamiya cans the colour coat and gloss. Used on automotive models follows a quite different path of fluoride varnish side effects the Aussie variation gloss... People like to thicken the decal that you are going to be clear since will. Surface beneath them thicken the decal traditional varnish transfers are still in circulation with decal solution or. ( evens out ) the final clear coat that seals the decals, paint your own creativity film be!