US Art Supply Clear Matte Topcoat Acrylic Airbrush Paint, 8 oz. My question is what do you think k about pouring on Old celling fan blades? So make sure your paintings are cured well especially if they are thick acrylic. I was going to do a record but didn’t quite know how to paint the Gesso onto it should I do it in the round groves of the album? Thank you for sharing all of your great experience and ideas! Congratulations, you just sealed your painting! I prefer the satin but have used them all. Model Master Acrylic Cleaner 50497A 4 oz. lol. It is the “epoxy” type and it dries clear and bright. This will happen with any paint no matter what substrate, or base it's made from. I had to learn how to handle the resin as it can be tricky. Hi! Oh I see. I am so frustrated. I've seen what the … at Lowes Home Improvement. I can lay down ultra thin coats and blend areas. That makes sense. List price: Previous Price C $80.12. Maybe a picture of a squirrel playing a harmonica will make you feel better? There were questions raised in the Facebook group about whether it would yellow so I wrote to MinWax and asked them all about it, and which of their product range would be best for protecting acrylic paintings. These were described as "enamel lacquers" which is too a misnomer. Any suggestions on application? They have it on this site: https://www.u-buy.com.au/brand/Minwax, I am just a beginner with this dirt pour and I have some cracking also after I applied the polyurethane should I just do the ne coat. I have 6 products to test so far. Here’s how I do it: Once you’re finished you should see a thin layer of sealant covering your painting. here in the midwest we definatly have humidity,but I do spray in an air conditioned shop in my house....although I think I may get a barometer to see what the humidity actually is in my shop. Tamiya is ranked #1 out of 6 top coat / clear hobby and model acrylic paint manufacturers, followed by Vallejo Acrylic Paints, and Testors. Hello – I’m painting canvas tote bags with acrylic paints and want a matte finish protectant that will waterproof the canvas and protect the painted design all while still being able to use the tote – Looking for a protectant that won’t yellow, crack the painted design and is flexible enough to use the canvas bag. A varnish would be oil based and typically has a slightly yellow tint – not good for our paintings! also great Clear Matte for Acrylic Pouring Art. Good luck. Nice even passes building up your gloss finish in layers. Hope you figure it out but before doing the piece again, test it. But the finish to seal and gloss has me stumped. A glossy clear coat provides the best surface for the application of the water slide decals. I’ve not had that on any of mine. Comes in military, automotive, train, and general colors. How long had you left the paintings before varnishing, and what surface was it? Everyone who has worked in the painting industry knows for a fact that you cannot mix true lacquer with either acrylic, or enamel as its' formulation is too hot, and won't bind with other substrates. We recommend light wet coats at 10-15 PSI. I like the results with it. 99 $19.99 $19.99 will it affect the sealer and the paint? While they are not particularly odoriferous, when airbrushed, they are not safe to breathe, so always use proper ventilation and wear a mask. I even use real rust on my models. Ultimately it's a gamble. Certain acrylic paints create their own cells, but now if I want cells, I mix Floetrol into my paint. Whichever I have on hand at the time. Thankyou for sharing your knowledge, it is fantastic to know what and how to use paints and Varnishes. This solution is 2 parts Golden Gel Medium to 1 part water. Very interesting comments. Is there any reaction when you do clear-coat the finished results? Maybe snap a couple of photos and send off to Minwax and ask their advice. I am quite amazed at how realistic I can make a plastic model look like a metal one. I never thin it, use it straight from the bottle and then clean my airbrush with regular paint thinner. So my beautiful white water wave is going ‘yellow’. Heard good things about that stuff,don't they make diffrent types,what do you thin it with,is iteasy to use,any info would be appreciated,might want to try it. The pours were comprised of medium flow acrylics, PVA , Floetrol and treadmill silicone on canvas. This is a misnomer that was introduced in the early 1950's as Ducco Colours by the DuPont corporation. I thought it applied rather thick. Humidity only affects gloss finishes usually. Sprays usually are best used in several very light coats. There are a variety of how-to books out there that cover the painting and finishing of aircraft models, but one doesn't stand out in particular for me on the techniques that work for me. 4.2 out of 5 stars 59. For fine art and archival purposes a solvent based sealer is best, this is because it can be removed if need arises to repair a painting in the future. Testors Model Master #1960 Lusterless laquer in the spray can has never let me down. Thank you it's interesting,they make a product called Aqua Clear,so I'm thinking it's acrylic,but their line is all actually lacquer,maybe I'll give it a shot,I had heard it's really dead flat. Lacquer is made from nitrocellulose - tree gum fiber, and NO ACRYLIC paint on the market has this in it - EVER!!! Basically put this is formulated to be used with only so much water, and exceeding that amount is unstable, and makes the paints' intended use unable to do as it normally would. There may be somebody out there who can use this stuff and get good results but I certainly aint one of 'em. For what it is worth, let me share my techniques for aircraft painting and finishing. I knew I’d seen mention of talc powder – and you’ve gotten a goodly article on it. I’m not from Australia. I have a simple step by step written up here for that – https://kit.co/acrylicpouring/cleaning-and-varnishing-acrylic-paintings. I wanted a 2-3 day outdoor finished job, or I give up on a sealer. I have refinished furniture, so top coating is not unfamiliar to me, though, I have never used Polycryl before. I’ve been trying to find the answer to a query I’ve had in regards to using silicone (or any oil-based product) in the paint to create cells. Additionally, a paint booth helps to get rid of those nasty fumes..................alot. They may be able to test a little of the varnish on the side of the painting and see if it is easily removable with a solvent, without damaging the paint underneath. By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. Not being from Australia, I’m finding that hard to answer. Apply the base coat. Acryl® flat paints are technically-advanced-thanks to superior emulsion resins, pigments and formulations. First, there is the type of clear coat to consider: Acrylics – Generally, these clear coats are water based, easy to apply, and in most cases are sufficiently durable enough for most modeling uses. I found a cheap clear spray varnish will that work? I’m finding that I get brush strokes even with a fine varnish brush. From what I’ve read here it looks like my painting is unrepairable? Just a thought!! So I pick and choose my purchases VERY carefully. Trying to find a solution. I have seen different results for the same finish from different companies. What can I use instead? Perhaps that will strengthen it. I tried pouring the polycrylic and it ambered horribly…had to throw out the painting ?. Which one do you recommend Jacqi? There is no way of getting the lacquer off? Like I said, any advice. Easy, no cleanup and can be found at your local store no problem. Use light even pressured strokes. But I find that the acrylic flat clear coats are just not that flat. I was intentionally looking for a non yellowing varnish/clear coat that didn’t have solvents or harsh chemicals that are yellowing my acylic white primer/paint. The thinner directions say to use 1 to 2 drops of thinner to 20 drops of paint. I’d suggest taking it to an expert just for a review. Hi I was just reading through and I have made a acrylic painting on a canvas tote bag and thought I may need to seal it? How long did you let your paintings cure? I’ve never used the matte so I can’t describe what the finish on it might look like. Let me educate you all on something that each of you has missed. It's more of a mist than it is an actual coat and dries almost as soon as it contacts. The results are anything but paint/coating I can tell ya that. I swear by it, and I've never had it "orange peel" on me...yet. Find model paints primers and top coats for scale modeling. Let this gas out and the paint the Gamvar on in a single thin even coat. I've had the jar a long time and had to thinn it down quite a lot. But now I do just one coat and I am pleased with my results. I really don't know. Myself, I will use rattle can clearcoat. • After painting, turn the can upside down and spray for a few seconds until paint … Ammonia attacks the acrylic paint resin, so it's best to avoid Windex [as a thinner]. If the paint goes on so thin that you can't see it, then you're spraying too thin! I do use the MM acrylic gloss most of the time though, great stuff there. Acrylic Thinners & Cleaners Model Master Acrylic 50496A 4 oz. C $7.83; Buy It … I started off with Testors Flat Clear acrylic and learned to cut it with Isopropyl alcohol. I did a fine mist- cote all over the model at 25 psi (to shift the stuff out of the air brush) and there didn't seem to be any broblems. Before applying any varnish I coat the fully dry acrylic canvas with an ISOLATING coat. Find great deals on eBay for clear spray acrylic. I usually add 3 or 4 coats and leave 24 hours between each one. It seems to be the most common indicator when the varnish crazes or cracks. Even if you put varnish on your painting (after isolation coat first); if you put it before the painting has cured well the varnish will streak across with the acrylic. I rather decant and run the paint thru my AB because I have more control this way than from a rattle can. Durable enough to protect from (heavy) traffic with uv stability. I would never have gotten as far as I have without your assistance . I know you have some really good art stores, so I suggest getting one of the artist varnishes designed for use with acrylics. I really don't know. I think it was because I poured it onto the canvas and perhaps didn’t allow enough time for the canvas to “cure” first. I don’t have a lot of experience with other varnishes to compare to. Just spray with a sweeping motion across in one direction starting off the model (in mid-air) so that the spray doesn't blast the surface all at once causing it too pool, or accumulate too much, and keep spraying until you're past the model so that you get an even surface coverage. Can somebody educate me? Recoating time is 2 hours and it’s fully dry in 24hrs. I cannot vouch for any other types of substrates, or mixing weird concontions together then spraying it over your paint without any consequences. For clear coats there are three basic varieties based on their chemistry: acrylic, lacquer, and 2-part urethane. Have you tried the Wooster Shortcut? Yes you do get silicone oil sitting on the surface of the painting when it is dry. I’m concerned there is an adhesion problem since some peeled when i accidently stepped on it. Also using a solvent type wash/filter over lacquer may result in the wrinkling or lifting of the finish if it's gone over several times as in DOT filtering where thinner is used to remove most of the artist oil paint so I rather use a clear acrylic as a barrier. Don Stauffer in Minnesota Love the cells it creates, but on every single painting it left “ fish eyes” where the resin separated from the oil, no matter how thoroughly I tried to clean off the oil before pouring my resin. That is disappointing. “. I have also had crackling with polycrylic. The product is known as Gamvar and the solvent is Gamsol. Krylon makes both a gloss and a flat acrylic clear coat. thanks guys, lots of good info, the reason why i want to airbrush only acrylic is the fumes when my shop was in the garage it didnt matter so much but now I am in the house so to keep the wife happy I only want to use acrylic. If you try it, I hope you will come to our chat group and share some photos. I've use Polly Scale paint almost all the time, love the flat finish. CLEAR COATS. Yes, you need to clean off the oil before varnishing. So if you are looking for a nice glossy and easy to use finish for your paintings, give Polycrylic a try. I love all the advice from all of you. Is there any products that can be recommended? Mission Models Clear Coats are very easy to use. I was going to buy new but what the heck stretch out the life of them with a pour of acrylic and varnish them. Never had a problem with either. One question-what happens when silicone oil keeps rising to the surface of a painting? I use it on every scale for every kind of kit unless a gloss coat is needed of course. https://kit.co/acrylicpouring/cleaning-and-varnishing-acrylic-paintings, Nancy Burke St . Carol what paint, mediums, do you use water or silicone? I’m new to this but it is quickly becoming my new love. You may be able to hide the cracks by applying more layers. Thanks Mustang, I've tried going super thin but I have a 'lead foot' with the airbrush and always tend to end up spraying a thicker coat than I intend to. Oh that is frustrating. Detail Paint Brushes Set 10pcs Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Art Painting - Acrylic, Watercolor,Oil,Models, Warhammer 40k. If you count longer than three seconds, then you're spraying it too long, and if you count less then you're not spraying it long enough. I’m trying to be more careful since the gloss coat I used(Mr.Hobby Color Acrylic Clear Gloss) ruined the camo on my current model. I am from Australia and am finding it difficult to source Minwax polycrylic. I’ve always found them to be very helpful. I've gotten to where when I spray my flat coats on I spray them so dang thin that I need backlighting to see where I'm coating. I clean the tiles carefully before painting and when they are dry, perhaps a week plus a few days (I use my thumb nail on the edge or side to be sure the paint does not dent) and then spray minimum of two times with a clear gloss product from Ace Hardware. Ditto on the Valejo Matte Acrylic Varnish or Dullcoat. They don’t have the gloss of a thicker brush on varnish but will still protect your paintings. Thanks!! So if the color coats are flat (matt), and clear gloss coat is applied before the decals. Your email address will not be published. I love the Mod Podge brush to apply it with. Thanks. I top coated 15 pieces, all did the same thing to varying degrees. To go with a complete acrylic system to rush the curing time may help. This adds one more step to the painting process, but believe me, its better than stripping the entire body! Visit our Mission Modes Paint Page With this in mind, I subjected my test coat of Tan Mission Models Primer to wet sanding with a 3600 Micro mesh Pad and was more than pleased with the result: a glass-smooth finish ready for the metallic paint of my choosing. It's not acrylic but it doesn't matter. To … Acrylic based varnishes/sealers can not be removed. I will report back …. How many coats do you usually apply? I live in the Caribbean where it is too expensive to order, ship and pay duty for the items all of you use. Acrylic paints can dry rather dull and darker than when wet, but adding back a glossy finish and brightening up those colors again is easy! However, if you want the best Acrylic gloss coat, try Future. Clear coats are used for a few reasons. USAF Aggressors Desert & Arctic Paint Set (6 colors) AMMO of Mig Jimenez. Thank you. I have used the testors clear acrylic flat several times and works good. Switching to molotow spray paint possibly. What is the advantage or why should you use acrylic clear coat? The staff there should be able to help you find the perfect one. Required fields are marked *, Our Facebook Group is the largest in the world with over 95,000 fluid artists. Wondering what the results were? I don't have the haziness, or crazing caused by it when using flat paints. I built my home and use the left over tiles. The nozzles put out a fairly heavy coat, but I find that in a clear coat that is not so harmful. I am very happy with the results. Thanks…. Have you used it before successfully? Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!! What I have learned over the years of living in microcosms and crafting and painting murals and now this is…you CAN get anything you want from anywhere in the world IF you are willing to pay the price. Are we saying 30 days cure..? Paint an even thin coat that goes on milky but dries clear. So to solve this problem I use a foam brush instead of a traditional brush. I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here. The only way to find out is test it and see I suggest testing on an old canvas you aren’t so in love with and see how it performs. Like better paint. I read all above and none sound very teen friendly, plus the drying time. The Polycrylic comes in matte, satin, semi-gloss and gloss. After about 3 to 4 weeks, after the steel wool is disolved, I pour it out into a stainless steel photographic tray and wait for the vinegar to evaporate. This is because the acrylic is a low solvent, or water based and the elemental substrate so any time you break it down you're basically reformulating it somewhat. Thanks Carol H. If you have any advice I’d appreciate it. The spray can is the way to go. Neither of these coatings will amber over time, which is typical with other polyurethane type products. Suggestions other than picking a different project? Two weeks for project is about all we have before take home. (Volume of Organic Content) version of any paint with a solvent base, but true lacquer EATS other substrates causing a lifting, or wrinkling effect. Probably not true but it makes me feel better. First of all there's no such thing as "acrylic lacquer". Thank you for that tip. Tamiya makes a flat clear. Continue until the whole painting is covered evenly, Clean the brush and dry thoroughly between coats, Rinse brush in warm water until all sealant is out of the foam, Lay on top of a cup to allow air circulation to dry the brush before applying the next polycrylic coat, Make sure brush is completely dry before moving to next coat, Wait at least 2 hours in between coats and apply between 2 and 4 total coats of polycrylic to finish sealing your painting. At the risk of a "me too" post, wanted to chime in on Gamera and Tojo's comments. If I had used Testors or similar out of a spray can, as you suggest, would I have achieved better results? I’ve used the Polycrylic on both glossy tiles (which are a bit like glass) and on pours on vinyl records and been very happy with the results. Thank you for that info, Deby. When you put one thick layer of clear coat, the solvents need a long time to vaporize, and will effect the acrylic paint, with the well know results. If you are looking for a high-quality system that … View our. Krylon makes both a gloss and a flat acrylic clear coat. It makes this worse by using ammonia which is not water based, but rather AMMONIA which makes the acrylic naturally clumpy as the two are incompatible. In my mind it's formulated for models. We’ve had a couple of people post examples of this in the FB group recently too. Then the varnish. Second: Acrylic and any other paint will turn white which is a condition known as "blushing" that is caused by HUMIDITY, and spraying too close! From what I know from personal experience is that these are great for figures, and armour - especially their flat is famous among the modeling scene. So far no issues with the Alclad, cross your fingers. I'm not very familiar with what they use since I don't cut my paints usually, but just paint with a brush when using them and I don't cut unless I'm using it for a special effect. The only other system that works is a breathable hard wearing sealer, as used on stains which breath & last decades. The Miniwax site for “Where to buy” in Australia, says: “Coming Soon” I want to seal it but won’t have 30 days for it to cure. I use Krylon FLAT CLEAR COAT, and I have yet to get a bad finish surface from it. As for paint I utilize Scalefinishes.com paint which can be anything from acrylic to lacquer of some sort. Did you use PVA in your painting? We recently started getting Liquid Wrench-Silicone and even though it has an odor…that is temporary. Hello, thank you for the advice on what to do with paintings that have silicone use. I really didn't expect this to happen and thought that solvent- based thinners weren't supposed to react with acrylics! One heavy coat if I'm happy with about 5-10 minutes of flash time between coats. It’s glossy, and it’s not too expensive. Man you're gonna get alot of different opinions here. I've been painting for over thirty years, and I've been modeling even longer. Never had any issues with it separating. Let this gas out and the paint the Gamvar on in a single thin even coat. I am relegated to school glue and water. It crackled the finish of all the paintings, especially in the areas of thicker paint. I can't remember the number, but the Tamiya web site would list it. What brush do you use? The same as Dan uses. They said: “the only products we offer that will be suitable for use over paint would be the Polycrylic or the Water-Based Helmsman Spar Urethane. This is an acrylic lacquer and a … Ty for your help. This solution is 2 parts Golden Gel Medium to 1 part water. After it is dry, I use a paint scraper (razor blade type) to scrape out the rust. Once the primer is fully dry, it serves as an efficient undercoat for almost any paint alternative. I’m still new to pouring, and used the Polycrylic in the matte finish (customer requested the finish) on a piece and it turned out more of a satin finish. Any thoughts on why I’m not getting the matte finish? I notice Deby applies 3 coats and I’ve only applied 2, so I think I’ll try 3 coats because I love how glossy her work looks. Gamvar comes in matte, satin or gloss. When applied to surfaces indoors or out, varnish cures into a thin and glossy film with a faint yellow or amber tint, similar to the finish achieved with oil-based polyurethane. You can make a high V.O.C. It does not get hard for about 4 days but it is dry to the touch in less than one. Well there are two types of acrylics - oil based, and water based. We are hot and humid 24/7 and breezy! coloring. If Acrylic paint dries on or in your airbrush, use one of the cleaners to remove the dried paint. I put some fine steel wool in a larger sized pill bottle and cover it with white vinegar. I wanted to do an acrylic paint pouring onto black canvas project with a special needs summer class. I decided to put a thicker layer on and it dried in a cracked pattern. Do not paint with metallic or … That's why they are called double-coat paints by some paint manufacturers. I have several pieces hanging on my walls and I have no cracking or dis- I'll then stick it into my dehydrator for 4-6 hours depending on the paint I've used. On the Bench:  Revell 1/96 USS Kearsarge - 70%. Perhaps you could purchase the same product in flat and paint over your matte? That’s a very good point that serious artists creating awesome art works should consider. To participate you must either login or register for an account. The foam brush should be barely touching the surface of the polycrylic, and try not to break the surface tension.